![]() The additional work generated by the use of flush rivets stems from the requirement to modify the drilled rivet hole to accept the cone shaped head of the flush rivet. Still, it is well for the first time builder to be aware that extra, time consuming, preparatory steps will be required if he elects to go all the way with flush riveting.Īs in the installation of conventional protruding head rivets, flush riveting starts with the drilling of the correct size hole for the rivet selected. ![]() However, extra work for a good purpose doesn't seem to deter most builders as they are more apt to be freer with their time than with their money. While labor costs aren't ordinarily a matter of concern in the construction of a homebuilt, the extra work could be. This is understandable for the extra labor costs could outweigh, by far, the slight performance gain realized from the extensive use of flush riveting. Unfortunately, since flush riveting is an expensive process, most manufacturers of general aviation aircraft have long limited the use of flush rivets to as few components as possible. The sleek smoothness of flush riveted skins is considered to be an essential factor in obtaining the maximum performance expected of high performance aircraft. If you have any questions, or if you have a suggestion for a subject of a future blogpost, please go to our Contact page.Flush rivets are used, primarily, on external metal surfaces where good appearance and the elimination of unnecessary aerodynamic drag are important. (For a good visual description of how rivets work, just follow this link.) Gutter screws will blend in almost as seamlessly as flush rivets! If done correctly, it will look as though a replacement never occurred. In some cases, simple pressure is enough to turn the gutter screw through the metal of the components even without a pre-drilled hole in place. If you can’t get old holes to line up, drill new ones with the same drill bit you used to cut the rivet. The threads of the fastener will cut channels in the thin metal walls, locking them together pretty firmly. Make sure you can feel the components drawing together. You can use the Phillips, flat-head, or nut driver options as required. ![]() A 6-in-1 screwdriver is all you usually need (I linked an 11-in-1 in the tool list up above). Now install the screw fully by turning it through the two components. Gutter screws can be installed using a screwdriver. I also wrote an article about replacing the porch column itself, so check that out if you’re interested.) You can clearly see the pass-through hole for the old rivet in both layers of the strap. (In my project, I was removing a strap that held a downspout to a structural column. You are left with the small hole that was originally drilled for the rivet to sit in. When the head of the rivet is cut loose from the wall, the bit punches the body of the fastener the rest of the way through. Back off some pressure to prevent jabbing the bit through with heavy force. This is the bit digging its way through the metal wall. You need to drill straight in.Īfter a few seconds, you’ll hear a different, lower sound coming from the fastener. In addition, make sure you don’t angle the drill. Don’t press hard enough to bend the drill bit. But, make sure you don’t break the bit! 1/8″ bits are fairly skinny. Maintain a low speed while keeping fairly firm pressure on the bit. You bore through metal with pressure, rather than speed. Now, holding the tool perpendicular to the fastener, begin to drill. Drill directly through the rivet hole with a 1/8″ drill bit.Ĭarefully place the tip of the drill bit into the hole at the center of the rivet.
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